Monday, January 21, 2008

Death of a Hero

In the year 2000 I finally fulfilled a long standing dream, that of going to Nepal and trekking to Everest. I had had this dream for a long time and it was worth the wait. As Jazz and I were trekking in the Khumbu, we could always see the great dark grey pyramid of Everest looming at the horizon. It is not the most beautiful mountain, for me Ama Dablam is, but it is imposing even partially hidden behind Lotse and Nupse. (In the photo Everest is the pyramid on the left behind Nupse.)
Last Friday Sir Edmund Hillary, the man who first climbed to the summit, died at age 88 in New Zealand. This tall rangy hero was a modest man and for the longest time after having won renown, still listed himself as a "beekeeper" the job he had done before climbing into fame. He was also a true gentleman and friend and always said that Tenzing and himself had arrived together at the summit when in fact he had gotten there a few minutes before his friend. That shows a real sense of chivalry, because even today, the role of the sherpa is often down played.
On May 29th, 1953, Edmund Hillary and his sherpa, Tenzing Norgay made history by being the first to climb to the top of the 29035 feet or 8850 meter Mount Everest or Sagamatha for the Nepalese. That is about the height that modern jets fly. At that altitude you are in the killing zone, where your body is slowly dying from lack of oxygen. (Believe me it is deadly, Everest has killed over 200 people since Hillary climbed it for the first time and that doesn't count those that disappeared like George Mallory before Hillary's time)
Many people would have been content with this, but Edmund Hillary went on to explore other mountains, cross Antarctica, touching the South Pole in the process, landed at the North Pole in a ski plane becoming the first man to touch both poles and the summit of Everest.
More importantly, he never forgot the sherpas and the Khumbu. He raised millions of dollars to build 30 schools, hospitals, roads, bridges and many other things that the region needed. In fact the Nepalese made him an honorary citizen of their country, the only foreigner to have been so honoured.
He was also an environmentalist, spearheading the clean up of Everest. When he pushed for the cleanup by climbers, there were tons of garbage such as used oxygen bottles, tents, packs, ropes and just plain garbage that had been left on the mountain. There were even many bodies and everything would be perfectly preserved for all time by the freezing temperature and lack of oxygen. (In fact George Mallory disappeared on the mountain in 1924 and when they finally found his body in 1999, they where able to see what had happened to him.) Because of his leadership the Nepalese government has put a garbage tax on the expeditions, they have to post a bond for a large sum of money (thousands of US $) and their equipment, food and stuff is then weighed and they must bring it back. They then pay so much for every kilogram they left. So everyone is forced to follow the trekker's credo, "What goes up, comes down!"
They don't make men like him anymore. Being an atheist, I don't really believe in an afterlife, but I'd like to think that if it exists, Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay are now together on the summit of the Sagamatha, the mother of all mountains.

9 comments:

CS said...

What an adventure! There are places you go that burn themselves into your memory and become part of who you are. Sounds like this was one of them.

Jo said...

One of my ambitions was always to go to Mt. Everest - just to see it, not to climb it. I am so amazed that you have been there. Sir Edmund Hillary made it possible for people to realize their dreams, didn't he? Can you just imagine being on the top of Mt. Everest? What a thrill that would have been.

Jazz said...

I think those who climb it today have much less merit, if only because of the high tech gear they use.

And if I were Sagarmatha, I'd kill a few people now and then too, just to teach them to respect me.

Hillary was a great man. Unfortunately, you don't see many like him today.

choochoo said...

Oooh, I wanna go to Nepal, too. The trekking thing I'm not so big on. If someone could just sort of carry me around on a golden throne, though, that'd be good. Or maybe not a golden throne so much as a nice leaning chair...

Ian Lidster said...

He was one of my genuine childhood heroes, though I've always thought Tenzing Norgay got rather short shrift in the Everest matter.

Big Brother said...

CS: I have travelled to many places but Nepal has a special place in my heart. :o)

Josie: Oh yes it would have been an awesome experience especially if like Hillary and Norgay you were the first.

Lil sister: And she sure does... treat any mountain with respect or they'll show you what respect is. :o)

ChooChoo: I'm sure that we could find you a porter or maybe a yak.

Ian: You are very right, but at least Hillary always gave Tenzing his due. I met a sherpa in Pangboche who showed me three pictures of himself on the summit of Everest with different expeditions, yet he was very matter of fact about it. But if a westerner does it once it's a big deal.

geewits said...

It always makes me sad when I'm playing a public trivia game and I'm the only one that gets "Tenzing Norgay" correct. I think it's wonderful that you and Jazz went there, but I don't really get the fascination. I guess I'm just anti-hardship or something. Vacations to me are all about EASE. I can't imagine there was much "ease" on your Nepal vacation. Plus, I'm easy about "Things to do before you die." I just want to see an aurora borealis and I'll be done. Okay, and Italy and Ireland.

Big Brother said...

You have to see Ireland before you die geewits. Spent a month there a couple of years ago and we'll be going back this summer to visit the bits and pieces we missed the first time around. The Emerald Isle really has 10000 shades of green. It's one of the few countries I'd move to. As for Nepal yes it was trekking but I love trekking. The people were really super nice and friendly and the scenery sublime.

CS said...

Congratulations! I have an award for you over at my place!